John Birdsall is an Oakland-based food and culture writer, winner of two James Beard Awards, both about LGBT aspects of food culture. The first, for Lucky Peach: "America, Your Food Is So Gay"; the other for Jarry, "Straight-Up Passing." Currently at work on a new bio of James Beard, to be published by Norton; co-author HAWKER FARE, with chef James Syhabout (Bourdain's imprint for Ecco Press). Bylines include Food & Wine, Saveur, Bon Appétit, Los Angeles Times, and San Francisco Chronicle.